Article: Goat-cheese making is high art for California's small producers

SANTA ROSA, Calif. Back in 1979, Laura Chenel had a big problem with her small farm in Santa Rosa: What to do with all the goat milk her herd was producing?

Cheese, she decided. Or, rather, chevre - a soft, tangy, fresh cheese made from goat milk that had long been produced in France.

Heading to the source, Chenel apprenticed herself to four farmstead goat cheese producers in France, then returned to Sonoma County to ply her new trade, opening her own plant in 1981. Her cheese is credited with sparking a culinary revolution nationwide.

Thanks to Chenel's pioneering example, northern California a decade later is home to a gaggle of mom-and-pop goat cheese makers who are satisfying an ...

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