Article: Fresh cheese yields grate expectations

When I was growing up, Parmesan meant the salty sawdust-like stuff sold in shiny green cardboard cylinders. To call it "cheese" was stretching things, but it tasted good on spaghetti and meatballs.

That was before the Great Food Revolution of the 1980s, of course, before most Americans had ever heard of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano or Pecorino Romano. These are Italy's premium grating cheeses, and if they're now readily available in North America, they're still often misunderstood.

If imitation is the highest form of flattery, Parmigiano-Reggiano must be one of the world's most revered cheeses. Parmesan-style cheeses are made everywhere from Wisconsin to Argentina. But only one - a ...

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