Article: Quince Appeal Isn't Skin Deep

House guests frequently leave things behind. Deborah Madison left quinces.

It happened several years ago when my family and I were living in New Mexico and she was thinking of relocating there. We had mutual friends, so she came to stay with us for a couple of weeks and check things out while she was working on The Greens Cookbook (Bantam, $26.95).

We ate well during that time, relishing the kind of food for which Deborah has become known - simple in concept, yet with deep, complex flavors. That most of those dishes used fruits and vegetables as their centerpieces was almost incidental.

Obviously, one of the things that begged for inspection during her visit was the local farmers ...

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