Article: Green Papaya: Lovely but Mild

THERE CAN BE few prettier restaurants in Bethesda than Green Papaya, but one could be forgiven for not immediately identifying it as Vietnamese. It has a touch of Tuscany in its soft neutrals and columns, a little art deco in its etched glass dividers, a bit of Bangkok garden twinkle in the tiny tree lights (and live banana tree) and pretty but low-key lacquer boxes and brass bits that might as easily be Indian as Southeast Asian. The fire is gas, but the extra wood is real. And the showpiece of the bar is a turquoise-tiled vertical fountain in the wall that could be from Morocco or Mexico or even Pompei. Still, somehow it works; it's an unobtrusively relaxing space, and an oasis of ...

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