Article: Freewheeling through FRANCE

LA TILLAUDERIE, France Just beyond nowhere, on a donkey farm up a dirt road, the rental car went on strike.

Repeated cranking of the ignition key brought only tantalizing coughs and growls, while a red warning symbol glowed mockingly on the dashboard. My dim grasp of French couldn't penetrate the Renault Storia's driver manual, whose text block revealing the mystery of the red light produced merely a shrug and a rueful smile from Jacques, the research farm's wiry manager.

So much for the joys of a freewheeling offseason vacation along the untrammeled byways of France.

On this chilly December day, in a nation hamstrung by public-transport strikes, it seemed that my wife, Marcia, and I ...

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