Article: Romaning the Olmec stones // Explore an early civilization and mysteries it left behind

THE TUXTLA MOUNTAINS, State of Veracruz, Mexico In this sweltering river country, the Papaloapan, Cuitlazoyotl and Coatzacoalcos rush headlong off verdant volcanic mountains and empty into the tepid waters of Mexico's Gulf Coast. The parrot green landscape could come straight from ``Romancing the Stone,'' and indeed, the movie's waterfall scenes were shot nearby.

Hidden from the 20th century (and most of the 18th and 19th centuries, as well) at the end of rutted roads where horses are more frequent than cars are Indian communities where everyone speaks the melodic languages of Mixe, Zoque or Popoluca. Towns such as Tatahuicapa and Mayacapan are so remote that most women dress in ...

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