Article: Boundary Waters revisited

ON GUNFLINT LAKE, Minn. In the 1950s, before Minnesota's northern canoe country became an adventure-travel destination, suburban teenagers went there to test the waters of manhood; in other words, to behave like hobos. A 10-day voyage into the unknown, it was our way of hopping a freight train. We smoked and swore as we pleased, carried cherry bombs in our pockets to ward off bears, chucked empty Spam cans into the woods, carved our names in trees, came home covered with ticks and wearing the same clothes we left in, hoping at least to smell like men.

For years I resisted the urge to go back, leery of what I would find. The daunting labyrinth of lakes had become the Boundary Waters Canoe ...

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