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Article: Pizza Italia - that's amore
- Article from:
- Chicago Sun-Times
- Article date:
- September 2, 1997
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 1997 Chicago Sun-Times. (Hide copyright information)
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Whatever happened to the tomato pie? The last really good pizza I
had was in Verona, Italy, at a small restaurant on the Via Mazzini
overlooking the ancient Roman amphitheater. In a Proustian way it
evokes delicious memories of a pizza past. In a Hamlet way it causes
me to fall into melancholia, desperate for a really good, really
Italian pizza.
Sitting on the terrazzo - yet with a bird's-eye view of the
wood-burning oven just inside - I watch the pizzaioli, or pizzamaker,
with deep admiration. He takes his work seriously; he is an artisan
- his demeanor tells me this. He has built a perfect fire, the glow
of the embers so fiery a blacksmith could forge iron.
His movements are swift and ...