Article: No joke: no yolk // Egg whites make a satisfying omelet

For many years, my friend Eric worked as an egg cook in a large restaurant. In his opinion, the world's most skilled cooks handle eggs and sauces - the delicate foods, he called them. You have to command a certain light touch to produce a fluffy omelet or a creamy hollandaise.

When Eric got interested in healthful cooking, some of his enthusiasm for eggs faded. "High cholesterol, high fat," he'd moan to me. "How can people eat three a day, knowing that one egg yolk contributes 213 milligrams of cholesterol to an already overloaded diet?"

Since egg whites contain no cholesterol or fat, they piqued Eric's interest. A new challenge: Could he create an equally fluffy omelet without egg ...

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