Article: Melt the blue veins for a mean rarebit Stilton does exist beyond the cheese board and some dishes can enhance its flavour, says Annie Bell `Rotten stilton can put you off for life, or at least until you have tasted the real stuff'

A whole stilton is a big cheese. I once lugged one over to Sicily, but it was worth it to witness the esteem in which my Sicilian host held it. During evenings spent in front of the fire toasting bread, he would reverently spread his with "steelto n", while I gorged on the first pressing of his olive oil. Following this exchange, stilton went up in my estimation.

In early life I was a victim of stilton at its worst. It is a grisly, aggressive monster of a cheese when it is not ripe; sharp and crumbly in the centre with dominant "blue" flavours projecting. Randolph Hodgson of Neal's Yard Dairy, in central London, is sympathetic: "Rotten stilton can put you off for life, or at least until ...

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