Article: Thank heaven for Sherpas and ponies

THE Kali Gandaki riverbed was dry and pitted with white stones. The wind whipped our backs. Ahead stretched the bleak Tibetan plateau, red ochre and monumental; above soared the snow-tipped peaks of Annapurna 1 and Dhaulagiri, both more than 26,000 feet high. The air seemed purer, the light sharper and the vastness more imposing than any place on earth.

I was back in my spiritual home, Nepal. But this was no ordinary trek. We were four adults with five children under the age of 10. I had envisaged a leisurely hike, keeping pace with the little ones. How wrong I was. The children scaled the steep slopes with the energy of mountain goats while, more often than not, the adults brought up the ...

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