Article: FOOD & DRINK

OUR OCCASIONAL series on things at the back of the store cupboard looks at dried wild mushrooms. Don't be misled by the inconspicuous packaging - usually no more than a cello-phane envelope - given to feather-light dried fungi, this is an ingredient that should not be overlooked. It is so packed full of flavour it should be on every cook's kitchen shelf.

Although gourmet grocers and delis also sell dried grisettes, horns of plenty or trompettes des morts, morels and shitake mushrooms, the most widely available dried wild mushroom is boletus edulis which are known in Italy as por-cini, in France as cepes and in Britain as penny buns. This is one of the tastiest wild mushrooms and its robust ...

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