Article: Rich rewards in the land of the Hittites

Never take the train from Istanbul to Adana. I was misled by the memory of a fine Turkish journey a few years ago. My compartment had been clean and comfortable and there was even a tiny restaurant car, though the only people served were the two attendants. When I asked if I could join them they produced delicious Turkish dishes, and after a stop in the countryside where they disappeared into the fields, the table had a vase of wild flowers in the evening.

But the alleged Taurus Express was hellish. It offered no food or drink, so I dashed into the station buffet to buy a bottle of raki, which was not a wise idea but the contents helped alleviate the effects of the train's squalor and the ...

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