Article: Delia Smith's gift is for taking cookery to the masses. But isshe doing enough for those who can't afford pecorino cheese or pancetta? Louise Levene has a plan

It has sold 1.6 million copies and counting. Delia Smith's latest publishing phenomenon goes from strength to strength. Her beaming face garnishes the cover of the Radio Times every week and her recipes have even found their way on to The Archers. Pancetta is pencilled in for inclusion in the new edition of Chambers' dictionary. Her mainstream appeal has put creme fraiche and parmesan on nearly every corner grocer's shelves and her evangelistic mixture of the eclectic and the mundane has transformed cooking in pine kitchens up and down the land.

She's no innovator - but then neither was Elizabeth David. What Delia has done since 1973 is to open up a range of possibilities to a middle class ...

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