Article: The only problem with the Azores is getting there

We were driving through some of the roughest country of the high mountains when a tough-looking guy sitting on a tough-looking horse scrambled down a near vertical slope ahead of us. Who was he? A cowboy escaping from the Injuns? A gaucho making his way back from the herd? Nope. He was a milkman - we could tell that, because he had two milk churns strapped on his horse's back.

There are a lot of milkmen in the Azores. Outside the towns, moving milk around - on horseback, in carts, on motorbikes and very occasionally by van - seems to be the main activity. That is not surprising: the Azorean uplands make Ireland seem arid - put a lot of Friesian cows on them, and you get a lot of milk.

We ...

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