Article: The big smoke; Smoked salmon should be wild, mild and from Hackney

Like the majority of people over the age of 15, I grew up believing that smoked salmon was one of the great luxuries in life, so the realisation, in adulthood, that it needn't be good came as something of a shock.

I once arrived in Montepulciano, in the early stages of pregnancy, with an insatiable craving for the stuff. Now, admittedly, no one in their right mind would go to Tuscany to eat smoked salmon, so perhaps the experience of the baby-pink, plasticised imitation I eventually located was to be expected.

Had I not already been addicted to the delectable real McCoy, I think I should have run a mile had I encountered it for a second time. Perhaps it was Norwegian farmed salmon - a pale ...

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