Article: A bit like Surrey with a ridge on top Sarah Barrell travels to Simla and meets ghosts of viceroys past, leather-clad bike boys and cheeky monkeys

SMOKY PINK sunrise has disappeared into another solar white-out by the time we reach the mountains. It's 6.30am on the platform of Barog railway station and definitely time for tea: passengers file off the train hot on the scent of the chai vendors.

I'm on the way from Kalka to Simla in the Indian Himalayas. As we warm ourselves with teeth-crumblingly sweet tea, we begin to notice the view. A befuddled outburst from an English passenger follows. "I don't know where I think I am," she shouts, "but it's certainly not India."

But it is. It's just that our tiny rail car, the little blue station house and white picket fence, decorated with bright orange marigolds in hanging baskets, all seem ...

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