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Arts: Death and the maidens First a memoir of Revolutionary Terror, then a novel, then a screenplay , and lastly an opera by Poulenc, The Carmelites bears the deep biographical imprints of all those involved in its creation.

The tourist office in Compiegne was terribly helpful. Yes, they said, there is a little bit of the famous Carmelite convent still standing, but of course it was torn down during the Revolution, and the nuns taken to Paris and executed...

That much I knew. That's why I was there; it was an opera lover's sentimental journey. So after a 10-minute walk down a pretty dreary road (typically Northern French Municipal - one Revolution, two World Wars, and a lot of "town planning") I arrived at the spot marked on my tourist map. And there indeed was the tiny Place du Carmel, an unmistakably 18th-century wall, a fairly recent chapel, a garage, a stretch of sheltered housing... and no plaque. So I ...

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