Article: MIRACLES AND MASSES Business is booming at the pilgrimage site of Lourdes, with an unprecedented 7 million visitors expected in the coming year. John Lichfield travels to the town and asks what really draws people there: faith or superstition?

RANDOM CANDLE burning is strictly forbidden in Lourdes. Each candle must be placed in the open air in one of 22 altars which look like market stalls on wheels. The altars glow day and night, a few steps from the cave where a 14-year-old peasant girl, Bernadette Soubirous, saw 18 visions of the Virgin Mary between February and July 1858.

When I first came across the outdoor candle shelters on a dark November afternoon, they were glowing like bonfires. A freezing wind was blowing from the Pyrenees. The hundreds of candles inside the blackened metal frames had been knocked against one another and fused into bizarre, inappropriately demonic-looking structures, like details from a painting by ...

Related newspaper, magazine, and journal articles:

 
 
Newsweek Harper's Magazine The Washington Post Chicago Tribune Crain's Chicago Business PRNewswire Pediatric News The Nation Advertising Age The Economist (US) A FREE trial gives you access to over 80 million articles! Access over 6,500 publications with a FREE trial!