Article: Eating In: Where the wild fins are Smoked salmon made from farmed fish is no substitute for wild fish smoked in the traditional way. It's more expensive but it's worth every penny. Try some, urges Michael Bateman

DO YOU have a feeling that smoked salmon isn't the delicacy you once thought it was? You're right, of course.

There was a time when British smoked salmon and Whitstable oysters were ranked as luxury items alongside the caviar of Russia, the foie gras of Perigord and the white truffles of Piemonte. But just as our oysters have been outnumbered by the more commercial, faster-growing and cheaper rock variety, so fine smoked salmon has been eclipsed over the last 15 years by the growth of farmed salmon.

While farmed fish can make decent smoked salmon, the best by far is made with wild fish. And for obvious reasons, it is going to cost more. Double, to be precise.

Sceptical that it's worth the ...

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