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Food: Whey of life Traditional cheese-making isn't the easiest way to make a living, but for Chris and Jeff Reade, it's a labour of love. Photographs by Jonathan Olley.

Cheese is a bit like wine," says Chris Reade, maker of the acclaimed Isle of Mull farmhouse cheese. "It's a matter of particular water and soil. Essentially it's a product of its place." And in the case of the Reades' Cheddar-style Mull cheese, the place is stunning. Sgriob-ruadh, the dairy farm that Chris, 60, shares with her husband Jeff, 61, looks out over forest, hills and a ring of ancient standing stones. To the left lies the Scottish mainland, 45 minutes by ferry, and the mountain range that leads to Ben Nevis.

The Reades' garden, littered with antique cheese presses, sways with yellow poppies and bluebells. But 17 years after moving to Mull from Somerset with their four sons, the ...

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