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Article: Food: New tricks for an old tart It was fashionable in the 1960s, unavoidable in the 1970s and 1980s, derided in the 1990s. And now, writes Michael Bateman, quiche Lorraine is making a comeback
- Article from:
- The Independent (London, England)
- Article date:
- September 17, 2000
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2000 The Independent - London. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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If ever a good food product got dumbed down, degraded and debased,
it was quiche. Who now remembers its golden years in the 1960s, when
food writer Elizabeth David introduced quiche Lorraine, a French
classic dating back to the 16th century, a creamy custard of farm-
fresh eggs and smoked bacon in crispy pastry made entirely with
butter?
It swept the country. When Marks & Spencer introduced ready-
cooked foods in the 1980s, quiche was in the vanguard. By the end of
the decade, it had become so copied by other supermarket chains that
you couldn't step up to a buffet anywhere without being confronted by
some variety of eggy pastry.
But, inevitably, cutting costs led to cheaper and poorer ...