Article: Food & Drink: Roast them? You must be nuts The true chestnut hails from Andalucia, and is best eaten fresh from the tree. Brian Viner visits a Spanish grower whose produce is turning a British tradition on its head

A wild boar, scarcely less alarming dead than he was when alive, glares fiercely from the wall of Marcial's Bar in the tiny Andalucian village of Los Marines. This is the heart of the Sierra de Aracena, just off the hilly road from Seville to the Portuguese border. Beneath the boar's head, five elderly men sit nursing glasses of guindas, the local and rather robust cherry-based liqueur.

It is a quiet afternoon in Marcial's, though I have heard the old place can get quite boisterous. Marcial, the proprietor, is the chestnut broker hereabouts, and an accomplished wheeler-dealer. The men, mostly gypsies and Portuguese, who come to buy chestnuts from him are no pushovers, either. Sometimes, ...

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