Article: British Isles: A taste of Cornwall in a pastry pocket Simon Heptinstall ignores the imitations and goes in pursuit of the perfect pasty

Old Mrs Trethewey turned the tiny hall of her tiny cottage into a makeshift pasty shop every lunchtime. She would push a table across her doorway and set up the tray of hot fresh pasties she'd baked that morning. A steady stream of working men would drop by to be greeted with a cheery "hello my lover", and disappear with a pasty in a white paper bag until she'd sold them all.

As an outsider I felt proud to have discovered Mrs Trethewey's homespun bakery in the back streets of St Austell. On my first visit I half expected someone to shout: "Hey, you can't have one of they - yoo'm not proper Cornish!", but as I became a trusted regular I felt as if I'd passed some arcane initiation to ...

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