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Article: Africa: Rock of ages In a scattering of sacred mountain caves in South Africa's Orange Free State, thousands of men and women converge to learn ancient secrets of healing, divining and witch-spotting. Heidi Holland joins the pilgrimage trail to the self-styled `University of Sangoma'. Photographs by TJ Lemon
- Article from:
- The Independent (London, England)
- Article date:
- May 5, 2001
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2001 The Independent - London. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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Wintry clouds robe the mountain as the family ascends with their
ceremonial shawls, crosses, staves, holy bowls and blankets packed in
suitcases and balanced on their heads. Making a nest for themselves
among hundreds of other pilgrims within a vast, echoing cave, they
feed the sacrificial cow which has been led up the mountain ahead of
them, and kneel down to pray.
At noon, summoned by the drums, Thabo stands with his family,
wearing a white robe and hat adorned with New Age celestial symbols,
waiting to be led by the "living dead" through timeless rites marking
his passage from amathwasa or initiate to traditional healer.
Like hundreds of other "graduates" at Motoleng cave and the nearby ...