Article: The Traveller: Top Table - TUGRA, ISTANBUL

Location: At Cadesi Ciragan 84, Besiktas, Istanbul (00 90 212 258 3377). Set in a grand 19th-century building, this is Istanbul's most revered traditional restaurant.

Ambience and decor: Imposing. The 40ft-high ceilings, atop huge columns, are covered in blue-and-ochre mosaic.

Clientele: Businessmen from Japan, a Turkish gentleman wining and dining a striking brunette, some Americans...

Service: The staff are imperious and very correct.

Romance factor: Tugra feels mysterious and oriental, and the night- time view stretches out across the Bosporus.

Menu: ...

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