Article: Food: It's all a question of breeding Low-fat fads and BSE nearly knocked steak and chips off the menu. But, thanks to pioneering chefs, this hearty meal is enjoying a revival, says Michael Bateman

Steak is the main feature of Smith's, one of London's trendier new restaurants. Not only fillet and sirloin, but juicy rump, served nice and pink. This is indeed something of a revolution.

You don't find steak much on the menus of top restaurants these days. But this has more to do with chefs than a decade of problems down on the farm (BSE, variant-CJD and this year's epidemic of foot and mouth).

Customers would choose steak every time if you let them, says Michelin- starred chef David Adlard. Steak does not appear on his menu at Adlard's in Norwich, one of East Anglia's top restaurants. "Cooking a steak offers no challenge to the chef," he says. "But if you put it on the menu, that's what ...

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