Article: The Mozzarella Man

Honk if you like fresh mozzarella. That's the drill at Blue Ridge Mountain Dairy, a one-man creamery near the town of Lovettsville in northern Loudoun County. Cheesemaker Paul Stephan may be in the barn, the smokehouse or springhouse. He may be in a far field tending to the needs of his nine water buffalo or milking Betty and Banner, his two Jersey cows. A toot on the horn lets him know that a customer has arrived for fresh, handmade mozzarella cheese.

Stephan, 32, is the only cheesemaker in the Washington area who makes mozzarella cheese, by hand, with milk from his own cows. Other local cheesemakers rely on purchased curd as well as machinery that effortlessly pulls and shapes the ...

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