Article: In a Ferment Over Cheese; Bacteria Scare Making French Review Production Methods

Cheese factory it may be, but the sprawling structure in the heart of Normandy's Camembert country has the air of a hospital.

Workers wearing white lab coats, caps and white booties wash their hands as they enter each room. Some pore over test tubes containing milk samples in a laboratory just off one of the curdling rooms. Everywhere, the floor is spotless and damp from recent scrubbings. Even the trucks that bring in the milk from local farms are washed twice a day.

In the entire production process, the little wheels of Lepetit- brand Camembert are touched only once by human hands, those potential carriers of bacteria. "You can't have zero defects, but we take every precaution," said ...

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