Article: Louis Vuitton, Minus the Signature; Premiere Clothing Collection Bears Marc Jacobs's Stamp

The fall '98 womenswear shows here began today with the unveiling of two long-awaited collections: the first ready-to-wear line from the venerable leather goods house Louis Vuitton and a new vision for sportswear at Hermes. These two fashion giants are in the midst of aesthetic upheavals. The challenges facing them could not be more different.

Both houses succeeded today in turning out beautiful clothes. Both failed, by varying degrees, to reinvigorate -- or in the case of Vuitton, to reinvent -- themselves.

Vuitton, part of the LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury goods conglomerate, has a rich history of producing signature leather goods such as wallets, purses and steamer ...

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