Article: Poor Man's Riviera offers value; If you go Getting there: From Paris, there is no extra charge for EurailPass holders to ride the TGV, but seat reservations are necessary and cost $10 per person if made in the United States. A one-way ticket from Paris to Saint-Malo costs $106 first-class and $72 second-class, using the TGV. Call Rail Europe, (800) 848-7245. When to go: Saint-Malo is packed from April through September, making fall and spring excellent times to visit. For further information, write: French Government Tourist Office, 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212.

Another misty day in Brittany and no way to spend my big wad of francs.

All I could do was drink Campari for 20 cents a shot, bicycle through the medieval lanes of this ancient walled city, jog atop the great stone ramparts, wade into the English Channel, play low-roller games in the casino, chow down cheap crepes or quenelles, board the mini-train at the city gates or take the sea shuttle to the posh resort town of Dinard.

Then again, I could listen to the free brass band at Place Chateaubriand; walk out to the Petit Be, before the 50-foot tide turned it into an island; shop for UCLA Bearwear or Levis for less than they cost at home, or take the bargain bus to the abbey at Mont ...

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