Article: Cookbooks with a past AMERICAN RECIPES FROM 1700S AND 1800S GIVE A FLAVOR OF THE NATION

This year is a double anniversary in American cooking. It's the bicentennial of the first American cookbook, Amelia Simmons' "American Cookery," and the centennial of the most influential American cookbook, Fannie Farmer's "Boston Cooking-School Cook Book."

Conveniently, both books are in print. The Fannie Farmer edition (Hugh Lauter Levin Associates, 1996 (originally 1896), $24.95) is actually a facsimile of Farmer's personal copy, complete with a couple of her handwritten corrections.

In "American Cookery," (Dover Books, 1984 (originally 1796), $3.95) Simmons cast a benevolent eye to the newly independent country's future; she offered advice on what food sources her readers ought to ...

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