Article: Recovering Mozzarella's Good Name

Mozzarella is the third most popular cheese in America. Well, something called mozzarella is.

Look carefully at the label and you'll see that the cheese is labeled "low-moisture mozzarella." True mozzarella is anything but low-moisture. In fact, it's one of the moistest cheeses you'll find. It's usually sold floating in a vat of salted water. Cut into it and it gushes.

Low-moisture mozzarella is an invention of the Midwestern dairy factories. Originally called "pizza cheese," it is not as perishable as real mozzarella (which ideally is eaten within a couple of days of being made). Being firmer, it also grates more easily and browns and melts better when cooked. It bears a family ...

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