Article: Sweet potatoes worthy of more respect

If you want to make me happy at Thanksgiving, do serve sweet potatoes. But please follow these rules:

Use them only fresh.

Do not cook them to a state of mush. And above all, hold the marshmallows. My annual craving for these orange-fleshed tubers begins every year before Halloween and spans several months, peaking at Thanksgiving. This is a serious addiction. First off, there's that rich, orange color . . . you can almost feel the beta-carotene going to work. Secondly, unlike white potatoes, whose trademark neutral flavor guarantees them a permanent spot in the Book of Comfort Foods, sweet potatoes deliver a more complex flavor profile. And that's where I part company with the marshmallow ...

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