Article: Riesling deserves more respect than it gets

Riesling has some problems. The most difficult to overcome is the fact that this misunderstood grape travels with a German passport. That pretty much guarantees second-class status at the world table.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with their French pedigree, have had a much easier time emigrating to far-flung vineyards. You can hold your head high and order these wines, but ask for a Riesling and your waiter will scarcely be able to hide his contempt.

It's a puzzling state of affairs because this cool-weather grape is one of the classiest acts around. In her book, "Vine, Grapes and Wines" (Knopf, 1986, $29.95), Jancis Robinson writes: "Riesling is so clearly one of the world's great ...

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