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Article: Fat is king in many a great chef's kitchen
- Article from:
- The Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (Milwaukee, WI)
- Article date:
- November 7, 1999
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 1999 The Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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Fat. For years, it's been a four-letter word. And yet the best
chefs know they can't be great without it. Sometimes they use a lot,
sometimes a little. Sometimes it's actually splashed on by the
ladleful, as just about any dish -- from fish to vegetables to beef -
- gets ready to emerge through the swinging doors.
It often takes the form of butter, of course, a key ingredient in
some of the seemingly lightest dishes and sauces, like those
righteous vegetable-juice reductions created by Jean-Georges
Vongerichten and imitated all over. (And the seductive smoothness in
many a mashed potato dish comes from a remarkable ratio: two parts
potato, one part butter.)
But there's a lot of ...