Article: A steady course

The Cheese Challenge

A steady course

Artisanal cheeses are turning up on more American menus

By JAN UEBELHERR

of the Journal Sentinel staff

Wednesday, October 4, 2000

A robust man sits in a Parisian cafe, finishing off a plate of steak and pommes frites. His plate is cleared and then, moments later, another plate is set before him bearing three small wedges of cheese. He goes about slicing and consuming each with gusto, expertly batting them around the plate with fork and knife, slicing and spearing slivers, clearly relishing this distinctive and rich finish to a very fine meal.

I observed this scene on a trip to Paris many years ago, and wondered just what in the world this man was doing. ...

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