Article: Cheese, please

ON first thought, serving a cheese platter during the holidays seems easy enough. But when confronted with the vast array of gourmet cheeses available, you might think again.

The world of cheese has gotten complicated. Specialty and artisan cheeses, made locally and imported from far and wide, are increasing in number and popularity. They're made from cows' milk, goats' milk, sheep's milk and even milk from water buffaloes. They sport soft rinds, hard rinds, herbed rinds and rinds that have been washed or soaked in everything from wine to salt water. Some cheeses are gooey and unctuous, some hard and grainy, and there's every texture in between.

How to wade through them all and pick a ...

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