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Crazy About Winchester; For Patsy Cline fans and Civil War buffs, this small Virginia town strikes a chord.

You could lose a whole day in Winchester, Va., looking for Patsy Cline's grave marker. Unlike Jim Morrison in Paris or Elvis in Memphis, Patsy's burial ground is no shrine. No graffiti, no eternal flames. No lines of weeping tourists. Her stone is as flat as all the others at Shenandoah Memorial Park, engraved simply with her husband's family name, Dick.

As I peered closer I found her name, Virginia Patterson Hensley, and below that, in parentheses and smaller type, almost as an afterthought, Patsy Cline. Two fresh, muddy graves nearby tell you this is a working cemetery, and as I stood there among the dead in the autumn sunlight a woman stepped out of a car, walked right past me, knelt ...

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