Article: What's creme fraiche all about?

YOU GO TO a restaurant, and there it is on the menu. Again. You read a food magazine, and it's in the recipes. You see it on the shelf at specialty food stores. And you ask yourself, what the heck is creme fraiche anyway -- and why is it everywhere?

Actually, I've had those exact thoughts about many foods as they pass in and out of culinary fashion -- cilantro, porcini mushrooms, balsamic vinegar, arugula, ahi, tamarind, kaffir limes, shallots and favas -- to name just a few.

But creme fraiche seems particularly ubiquitous these days. How come?

Certainly one reason is that it's fancy-sounding. When your menu says "with creme fraiche," you can charge more for a dish than if it says "with ...

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