Article: Vineyard is wealthy playground

"This place is cute," I thought, moments after driving off the ferry in Vineyard Haven. "Cute, cute, cute."

That first-glance assessment stayed valid through my visit to the Massachusetts island called Martha's Vineyard last fall, though I immediately began adding adjectives: historic, interesting, complicated.

Martha's Vineyard is an expensive getaway, a handsome haven for the rich and nearly rich, as pretty as a well-composed postcard, as quaint as a Disney-designed Main Street.

But beneath its polished surface -- beyond the art galleries and the exquisitely casual restaurants and the elegant B&Bs -- there's a year-round resident community, dealing with the changes that heavy tourism ...

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