Article: The mighty chickpea ; With its gentle, nutty flavour, and its wonderful affinity with chillis, lemon juice and herbs, there's one pulse that sets Skye Gyngell's heart racing

To enter the kitchen here at Petersham you have to walk through a store cupboard which, during busy lunch periods, doubles as our dessert section. The cupboard is lined with wooden shelves which are packed with all the things I love to use in cooking: oils, vinegars, condiments, honeys, spices and sugars - from palm to cane - as well as various pickles.

But the items that fill the food cupboard more than any of these are the grains and pulses. We've got a huge variety of dried beans, including cannellini, borlotti, a lovely little white bean from Spain known as arrocina, a plump, taupe bean called zolfini from Tuscany, beautiful pale-brown lentils from Umbria, farro and polentas from just ...

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