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Article: Now, That's a Keeper; A Chef's Crab Feast Strategy: First, Catch a Batch of Big Ones
- Article from:
- The Washington Post
- Article date:
- August 1, 2007
- Author:
CopyrightThis material is published under license from the Washington Post. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Washington Post. (Hide copyright information)
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EASTON, Md.
When Andrew Evans drops his baited line in the river shallows
near here, dozens of crabs get a hankering for a chicken neck. He
makes lightning-fast swipes with a long-handled net, his swinging
arms a blur, as he pulls fierce crustaceans into the boat along with
flying beads of brackish water.
Around the Chesapeake Bay, Evans, 41, is known not only as the
respected chef and co-owner of the Inn at Easton but also as a
"chicken necker," a reference to a preferred bait of recreational
crabbers. For his restaurant's popular crab cakes, he relies on
commercial watermen to bring in the haul and on companies that sell
him picked meat. But a few times a month, he casts off himself in ...