Article: Warming Up To the Big Cheese

FORGET THE SOUP and sandwich; give me bread and melted cheese. (Plus a little wine or beer, of course.) Nothing could be simpler, or more satisfying. Roman soldiers dined on it (in a form very like white pizza); every seafaring adventure from Robert Louis Stevenson's "Treasure Island" to Patrick O'Brien's Aubrey/Maturin series has featured toasted cheese for supper; Wallace and Gromit would starve without their Wensleydale. And versions of this happy marriage still hold honored places in cuisines as varied as Swiss, Italian, British, Mexican and French and under such various names as fondue, white pizza, quesadillas and Welsh rarebit.

The pleasures inherent in this combination may ...

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