Article: BIG-TIME BEANS Stewed fava beans with melted goat cheese.

SHERYL JULIAN IS A FOOD WRITER FOR THE GLOBE.

The fava bean is the new darling of the food set, an ironic status for something so ordinary and so ancient (favas were eaten long before the first Roman cookbooks appeared). But, like other common foods that have witnessed a rebirth on stylish menus, favas take some getting used to. Their taste is slightly bitter, somewhat musky, and the seasonings and garnishes that flatter them are often just as strong. Those raised on a Mediterranean diet find the mild bitterness part of the charm. New fava eaters should play it safe by peeling the little beans to make them sweeter, a time-consuming task that guarantees a delectable product.

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