Article: NORTHERN IRELAND: SAFE -- AND WORTH SEEING Its beauty is haunting and its people are fascinating

BELFAST -- For the last five years, I have reported for The Boston Globe from Northern Ireland with some regularity. And without fail, whenever I leave on these two- to three-week assignments, some people act as if I'm off to Beirut.

My wife, not an overly religious woman, says novenas.

My mother, the quintessential Irish matriarch, says I should stay in the Republic of Ireland, where it's safe.

And some people wonder why I would want to venture off on a story about an intractable, internecine conflict that they think only extremists really care about.

Well, first of all, I am statistically more at risk when I go on

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