Article: WHAT'S SO COOL ABOUT CHEAP EATS? WITH 10 YEARS ON THE BEAT, SHERYL JULIAN OUGHT TO KNOW

Many of us who have put pot to stove have thought about opening a restaurant. Most of us stop there. Then there's everyone else: Energetic cooks who want a little place and aren't interested in reinventing the wheel; entrepreneurs without big egos; and immigrants who came to Boston and couldn't find other work.Mary Brown, 79, who ran Mary Brown's in Watertown for several years in the early 1970s, emptied her own sitting room into her restaurant. "The furniture came out of my house," she told me. Brown even took an ornately framed Venus to the storefront restaurant. I picture other strapped-for-cash restaurateurs buying boxes of inexpensive plates and flatware without knowing exactly ...

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