Article: NOW STARRING: PANNA COTTA

Panna cotta: Literally cooked cream. A mixture of cream, milk, sugar, and gelatin, brought to a simmering point and then poured into molds to set." This is Anna Del Conte's definition in "Gastronomy of Italy." It doesn't sound like much - until you eat a spoonful.

For years, pastry chefs put tiramisu on their menus, whether or not the establishment was Italian, because the sweet concoction of cake and custard was a surefire sell. Then the fashion moved on to creme brulee, a thick, egg-rich custard with crackly caramel on top.

Now the scale has tilted once again, and the new darling is panna cotta. The turned-out cream, which is milky and barely set, is sometimes tinted golden or ...

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