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Article: MILK RUN FOR OLD-FASHIONED CAKES THAT ARE IMPROBABLY RICH AND FEATHERY LIGHT, HOLD THE BUTTER AND REACH FOR A PAN OF SCALDED MILK.
- Article from:
- The Boston Globe (Boston, MA)
- Article date:
- November 7, 2004
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2004 The Boston Globe. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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When you beat scalded milk into a cake batter, a robust mixture
turns thin, runny, and looks ruined. But something magical is
happening, and the results - the classic hot-milk cake, which dates
at least to the Great Depression - are light, buttery, and golden.
This genre of cakes typically contains little butter but plenty of
milk and eggs. The hot milk, explains Johnson & Wales University
instructor Peter J. Kelly, whose mother, grandmother, and great-
grandmother all made the same cake, begins to poach the eggs. So the
finished cake tastes rich and, lacking a large quantity of butter,
almost feathery. We think of these confections as make-do, as if
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