Article: DOWN TO EARTH IF TRUFFLE OIL IS AN ACQUIRED TASTE, THEN RESTAURANTGOERS HAVE PICKED IT UP.

You know an ingredient has arrived when it's used on popcorn. The rare and rarefied truffle (the subterranean mushroom, not the rich chocolate bonbon) has lately been slumming in such distinctly plebeian dishes as pizza, macaroni and cheese, french fries, and, yes, pop-corn. Like a politician at a church supper, the truffle is out to prove that it, too, can be a regular guy.

To be exact, it's truffle oil - olive oil infused with truffles - that has leapt over its old bounds to perfume these simple dishes. With its unmistakable aroma, good-quality truffle oil has become a chef's favorite shortcut.

Truffles and tater tots come together at Grill 23 & Bar in Back Bay, where cold mashed ...

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